Canterbury Region

When Captain Cook mapped Banks Peninsula in 1770, during his circumnavigation of New Zealand, he recorded the peninsula as an island. It was an understandable mistake because the low-lying land bridge that connects the peninsula to the mainland is bordered to the south by Lake Ellesmere, a broad expanse of water that, despite being only a few metres deep, forms New Zealand's fifth-largest lake. It wasn't until 1809 when the Pegasus, surveying the east coast of the South Island, tried to sail between Banks Island and the mainland that they discovered the island was in fact a peninsula. The first Europeans to set foot on Banks Peninsula were flax-traders, timber-cutters, boat-builders and whalers who sought shelter in the numerous bays and inlets around this almost circular peninsula. A French whaling captain, Jean Langlois, bought a tract of land here in 1838 and then returned to France to establish the Nanto-Bordelaise Company, assembling a shipload of immigrants to colonise the peninsula. Within two years the 63 settlers had set out accompanied by a French warship, but while they were on the high seas, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. They got to Akaroa to find that the British were already there and had hastily set up a magistrate's court and hoisted the Union Jack, just five days before their arrival. Nevertheless, the French colonists settled at Akaroa and stayed on even after the French land claim was later sold in 1849 to the New Zealand Company. Descendants of these colonists still live in Akaroa and many of the streets and houses still bear French names.

The Timesball Station overlooking Lyttleton Harbour.

1LYTTLETON

The tour starts from Simeon Quay in Lyttleton.
This picturesque little town is nestled against the steep sided slopes of an extinct volcanic crater that was breeched by the sea to form the harbour. During the early years of the settlement, Lyttelton's growth exceeded that of Christchurch, which explains the large number of elegant nineteenth-century buildings that still survive in the area. As well as numerous charming Victorian houses and cottages there are also some notable historic churches. The Church of the Most Holy Trinity (1860), St John's (1864), and St Joseph's (1865) can all be found on Winchester Street. The town clock in Oxford Street was built as a memorial to Charles Upham, a notable doctor who practised in Lyttelton. Nearby on the site of the Canterbury jail, which operated from 1851 to 1919, you can see the remains of the huge concrete prison walls and a few cells. The Lyttelton Museum on Gladstone Quay has a wealth of information on the port, but it is the eccentric style of the Timeball Station (1876) on Reserve Terrace that captures the imagination of most visitors to Lyttelton. The position of the ball, that can be raised and lowered on the mast on top of the building, was used to signal ships in the harbour, enabling them to set their chronometers. The building is one of only a few of its type in the world remaining in working order. For steam enthusiasts, the restored steam tug Lyttelton takes visitors out on harbour trips during weekends over summer. Built in Glasgow, the Lyttelton arrived in New Zealand in 1907 and is the oldest tug in the country.

Graving Dock from Governors Bay Road.

2GOVERNORS BAY

Drive southwest 0.4 km on Simeon Quay, turn left onto Brittan Terrace and continue 0.9 km onto Park Terrace and continue 1.5 km onto Governors Bay Road. From the road around the harbour there are views of the port facilities including the huge Lyttelton Graving Dock built in 1883. Continue 6.2 km on Governors Bay Road and turn left onto Main Road driving south 0.6 km to Governors Bay.
In 1850 Governor Sir George Grey arrived in HMS Fly and waited in this bay to welcome the first four ships bringing English migrants to Christchurch. St Cuthbert's Church dates back to 1862 and features thick rammed earth walls with a stone exterior. The Ohinetahi Homestead was built in 1864 and features one of the finest formal gardens in the country.

3birdlings flat

Continue south along the harbour on Main Road for 1 km, and continue on Governors Bay Teddington Road 4.6 km, turn right onto Gebbies Pass Road and drive 8.8 km south-west to reach SH 75. Turn left onto the Christchurch-Akaroa Road and travel 16.2 km south-east on SH 75. The access road to Birdlings Flat is on the right.
In 1840 the first team of bullocks used to plough the Canterbury Plains was landed here. In 1842 the area was named after W. M. Birdling who was the manager of a local estate. Today the flat, located at the start of the long Kaitorete Spit that borders Lake Ellesmere, is a popular place for fishing and gemstone hunting.

4LITTLE RIVER

Continue east on Christchurch-Akaroa Road 9.8 km to Little River.
Once a coaching stop on the route to Akaroa as well as the terminus of a branch railway that operated from 1886 through until 1962, Little River was originally developed as a saw-milling settlement. The railway station is now a visitor centre and you can still see St Andrew's Church, built in 1879, standing on a site donated by W. Watson, who established a profitable cocks-foot seed industry on the Akaroa Peninsula. This grass was much in demand in the North Island, for sowing in areas that had been cleared of forest. Near the Little River Domain stand two whaling pots, a reminder of another early industry, while a statue beside the Maori Hall depicts Tangatahara, the chief responsible for killing the uncle of Te Rauparaha in a battle near Kaiapoi. In an act of revenge, Te Rauparaha destroyed Tangatahara's pa at Onawe, killing and eating most of the defenders.

5DUVAUCHELLE

Continue east 18.4 km on the Christchurch-Akaroa Road to Duvauchelle.
This tiny settlement was named after Jules and Benjamin Duvauchelle, two brothers from the original party of 53 French colonists, who were granted sections here. The French colonists flourished briefly, trading with the whaling ships and by 1843 there were 69 French settlers on the peninsula along with 86 British settlers, some Maori and a few Germans. The hotel dates back to 1882.

Historic wharf at Akaroa.

6AKAROA

Continue south-east 8.6 km on the Christchurch-Akaroa Road then 0.2 km on Woodhills Road and 0.6 km on Rue Lavaud to Akaroa.
Canturbury's oldest town, Akaroa was originally the site of a whaling station before the town was founded in 1840. The French missed their chance to establish sovereignty on the Akaroa Peninsula by as little as five days when the 53 French settlers brought out by the Nanto-Bordelaise Company, arrived at Akaroa to find the British flag already flying. Many of the connections with France dating back to this period have survived and give a special flavour to the village. Life was tough for the early colonists but they soon replaced their tents with houses, and began to grow a variety of fruit and vegetables. The French navy built wharves, bridges and roads, French priests taught the children and eventually shops, hotels, bakeries, and cafes were opened. The settlers lived under British rule although French law was still administered. There was a decline in whaling by the mid 1840s and the French navy left in the early 1850s. Most of settlers stayed and were granted titles to their land by the British. The Langlois-Eteveneaux cottage on Rue Lavaud, which now houses a museum, was prefabricated in France and erected on the site in 1845. With its slate roof and quaint shutters, the cottage was designed in the French colonial style for Captain Langlois. It is interesting to visit the old French cemetery on L'Aube Hill, where the headstones tell their own stories. The Customs House at Daly's Wharf was built in 1852 from pitsawn totara and there are also three churches in the town dating back to the 1860s. The wooden Akaroa lighthouse was first lit in 1880 on Akaroa North Head and stood there for a hundred years before it was moved to the township. With its eclectic mix of French and British architecture, Akaroa has retained the atmosphere of a Victorian seaside village. It is located on an excellent harbour for boating and fishing and now caters mainly to holidaymakers and tourists. About 5 km to the south is the small Maori settlement of Onuku with its historic church and a modern meeting house.

7okains bay

Return north-east 0.6 on Rue Lavaud, turn left onto Woodhills Road and continue 0.2 km onto Christchurch-Akaroa Road 5.4 km. Turn right onto Okains Bay Road and drive 13 km to Okains Bay.
This unspoilt bay is still populated by descendants of the original settlers. The Maori and Colonial Museum at Okains Bay contains a fascinating collection of Maori artifacts, including flax cloaks, war clubs, musical instruments and fishing gear. There is a rare 'god stick' that is over 500 years old and a number of 'kumara gods' which were placed in fields to ensure good crops. The museum features one of the few carved meeting houses in the South Island, a war canoe dating back to 1867 and a number of colonial buildings, including a totara slab cottage that was originally built at the head of the Kaituna Valley in 1884. There is also cheese and butter making equipment on display from the old Okains Bay cheese factory, as well as an outdoor bread oven which was originally built in 1878 at Lavericks Bay.